Nieces, Part 2 ( Six Photos )

watermarked niece cupcakewatermarked niece dancewatermarked niece by the window 1watermarked niece by the window 2watermarked niece stuffed puppyNieces, Part 2 ( Six Photos )

Here are six more shots of my lovely nieces. All were taken with a Canon AE-1 on Fuji Neopan 400 film, personally souped up in the darkroom with D76.  © Patrick Bresnahan

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28 thoughts on “Nieces, Part 2 ( Six Photos )

  1. There are a few odd streaks on the shots here. I’m not too sure if they are from my developing or scanning. If you’ve got any tips or advice, I’d love to hear it!

  2. What do you mena by “odd streaks”?
    I observe some water marks probably due to lack of a good finish washing with a moisturizing agent (Ilfotol, photoflo, …). Do you use distilled water for you r last washing? Here you may read a thread in Flickr about this topic [http://www.flickr.com/groups/ishootfilm/discuss/72157623580549698/]
    Another thing is a kind of Moire marks probably due to the scanning!
    Hope this helps!

    • Thanks for commenting, Jesus. I think I might be using too much photo flo. If that isn’t the problem, then it might be due to using tap water to rinse the negatives. I might rinsing them with distilled water in the future.

  3. Great shots of your nieces. Lovely action shots. You captured them perfectly.

    The streaks could be from a couple of different things. Maybe agitate a little longer/better in the developing. Make sure your fixer is fresh and fix a bit longer than you have been. Jesus has given you a great link and I would highly recommend following his advice. There is invaluable information to be found on some of these sites.

    Marks just added a bit of invaluable information as you’re using 35 mm film. He said to cut off the leader off the film, doesn’t matter if this is exposed to light. Dip this leader into your working solution fixer about halfway. Start a timer. When it clears and you can see through it, double that time and that will be your fixer time.

    We also noticed that there is some dust on the film. This could be either from the scanner, or from the drying process. Where are you drying the negatives? If you are home developing it’s a good idea to dry negatives in the shower. First you would turn on the shower and make sure the area really steams up as this will lay down any dust that might be in there. Then you hang your negatives to dry. Check your scanner for dust. What type of scanner are you using? We have found that no matter how hard you try sometimes you get dust during scanning.

    If you have any other questions, please feel free to contact us. We’re always happy to help. If we don’t know the answer we will find it for you.

    Have a great day.

    Marks and Joey

    • Thanks for these great tips! I’m developing in a darkroom at a university where I teach English. I’m hanging up the negatives to try in a small enclosed rack of sorts. I’m not sure exactly what it’s called.

      For scanning, I use an Epson V500. I try to get all the dust off as best I can before scanning, but it’s not always easy. I use a dust blower to gently remove dust – both from the negative and from the scanner. Sometimes, when I have a lot of rolls to scan, I get in a bit of a rush. I should probably slow down a bit!

      I have some chemical that allows me to check if the fixer is exhausted or not. I believe it’s called hypo check. It is possible that the fixer was a bit expired for these images. These came from the last rolls I developed after returning home. I must have fixed around 12-15 rolls of film with that batch. Do you suppose that was too much? I figured it was still good, so I didn’t bother to use the hypo check before developing and fixing these last few rolls.

      Anyhow, thanks again for commenting!

      • Hi, you did not say how much of as batch of fixer you started with, but it sounds like the fixer might have started to die. Fixer is used up pretty fast with film and not as fast with paper. I mix up 400 ml at a time for a single roll stainless steel tank and only do 2 or 3 rolls of 120 film.
        Keep up the good work.

        Marks

      • Hi, with that info, you should be good for your fixer strength “being good”. I did some research and the only thing I can find that would cause those streaks would be improper agitation or the film was touching another part of the film in the spool when you developed it and not enough chemical came in contact with that small area, I really don’t know what else to say. Do not give up. From your photos you have a very good eye and knack for photography.

        Marks

      • Thank you for your comments, I really appreciate them! I’ll try to figure out exactly what went wrong. I’m sure I’ll narrow it down for certain soon enough. There are a number of things that I’ve learned through all these comments, so hopefully my future rolls won’t suffer so much!

  4. What I can see on two of the pix are what look to me like (elliptical) Newton’s rings, so what holder/scanner combination are you using? I’ve commented a time or two on my blog that the biggest problem I have encountered in returning to film after several years is with scanning; I’ve found that scanning colour is usually OK, but scanning B&W often raises all sorts of problems. One problem is just that as far as I can see no-one has yet designed a decent film holder (and I’ve had a look at every one turned up on internet). I’d go back to making paper prints if I could but those are no use for blogging and I’ve no room now. I use an Epson 4990 with either the Epson or Digitaliza holders; for 35mm I have a very old Dimage Scan II, which is generally much better but a little engineering thought could have much improved the film holder. Both with VueScan.
    By the way, the pictures are lovely and brought a warm smile.

    • Cheers, I’m glad you liked these shots! Well, I’m using an Epson V500 with the holders that come with it. I usually have good scans – particularly with medium format. However, 35mm can be troublesome at times. I’ve noticed these same markings on other shots taken on Fuji Neopan 400. It might be the scanner, but it also might be due to using too much photo flo after rinsing the negatives. Even then, it might even be due to me rinsing with tap water and not distilled water. Thanks for your input! I’m going to try and see if I can figure out the culprit – whether it be the scanner or my developing process.

      • As far as water is concerned I’m really lucky as (apart from the fluoride imposed on us) in Yorkshire it’s pure enough to leave no drying marks. Nevertheless I use Photo-flow at the recommended 1:200 dilution as a final bath as it means the film dries faster; it’s never caused a problem. For medium format I’ve found the Lomo Digitaliza holder works best with the 4990; I’ve not had success with the Lomo 35mm holder so use the Minolta for 35mm.

      • A PS. I’ve looked again at the full-size images. I’m still persuaded that the ‘marks’ I can see on picture three (three virtually identical marks at the throat, the tummy and between the legs) and on picture five (going from just above the girl’s right hand to the top of the picture) are Newton’s rings. If the film was bowed and touching the glass along the centre line this is what you could get.

      • Ah, I see. Now that I think about it, I recall the film sort of curling after it dried. I’ll have to try and flatten them out a bit before scanning next time. Thanks, I really appreciate your comments!

    • Yes! I’m really fond of the Neopan 400 graininess. I think I’ll try pushing it to 1600 in the future to try and increase that lovely grain : ) At the moment, I’ve got my Canon AE-1 loaded up with some Kodak Tri-X 400 but I’m shooting it at 3200. I plan on pushing the film as far as it can go. I’ve never tried it before, so I’m interested in seeing the results.

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